Being the second highest peak at 2,518 meters in the North Island, Mt Taranaki has no doubt attracted many enthusiastic climbers to scale this iconic volcano. The lesser-known Fanthams Peak is a parasitic/secondary cone formed on the South side of Mt Taranaki’s main cone. While it is less popular and more challenging than Mt Taranaki Summit Track, Fanthams Peak has become one of my most memorable climbs in the North Island.
Moreover, the climb to Fanthams Peak provides the opportunity to stay overnight at the spectacular Syme Hut. Situated at 1940 meters, Syme Hut is the second highest hut, and the highest DoC (Department of Conservation) hut in the North Island. The best feature of Syme Hut is that you get a closeup look at the magnificent Mt Taranaki, from within the hut, right out of the window!
Things I packed for Fanthams Peak Track & Syme Hut Overnight Stay
- Hypergear Dry Pac 30L waterproof backpack
- PTT Outdoor 的 HIGH PEAK 便捷旅行睡袋 （首次购买最低 RM100 即可优惠 RM10，优惠码“MEOW”，仅限马来西亚境内）
- TOMSHOO sleeping bag liner
- Quechua 登山雨衣
- Decathlon Ski base layer top + Quechua Hiking Fleece Jacket + Quechua Convertible Hiking Trousers [shorts] + Kiprun 跑步袜 (for the day)
- Ski base layers top & pants + warm hiking socks + gloves from Decathlon (as sleepwear)
- Extra 羽绒服 (didn’t use but important to bring, just in case)
- Adidas Kampung (not from Adidas, Malaysia’s trusty rubber hiking shoes)
- Sun hat / scarf / sunglasses
- 急救箱，指南针和哨子
- 充电头灯
- Phone, powerbank & charging cables
- Food (for 1st day dinner & 2nd day breakfast) and snacks, paper towels, rubbish bags
- Water bottles (1-2L)
- HydroBlu lightweight water filter
- CuloClean 便携式射水头, some toilet paper
- Toothbrush, toothpaste, hand sanitizer, soap, comb
- 折叠剪刀
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Fanthams Peak / Syme Hut via Dawson Falls Visitor Center
1.52pm: The challenging climb to Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut Track takes about 3 to 3.5 hours. The track begins at Dawson Falls Visitor Center. At the visitor center you could fill up the intention form and check with the DoC staff for the track and weather updates. You can also purchase the hut ticket here if you are staying at Syme Hut.
The Goblin Forest
(+4)1.56pm: From the base of Mt Taranaki you’ll pass through what they call the Goblin Forest. It’s a forest of Kāmahi trees with twisted, dividing trunks, and green mossy looks.
(+4)2pm: As informed by the DoC staff from the visitor center, at this 3-way signage, the direction pointing to Fanthams Peak / Syme Hut Track had been broken off and stolen. So, go to the direction of the broken pointer and head upwards.
Enjoy more of the Goblin Forest as you make your way up.
(+20)2.20pm: After that, you’ll leave the covered canopy of the Goblin Forest and here comes the mountain views.
The tip of Fanthams Peak is now visible over the first hill. On a clear day, you would already be able to see a good view of Mt Taranaki. In this picture, we can only see a small bit behind the clouds.
Hooker Shelter
(+8)2.28pm: Soon, you’ll reach the Hooker Shelter (1140m). You would make the first decision to continue on or to turn back, based on the weather ahead and your condition.
Take a break to look back and enjoy the view below.
(+23)2.51pm: Passing by the turn to the private Kapuni Lodge built and owned by Mt Egmont Alpine Club.
(+8)2.59pm: Then, the ‘ground stairs’ turn into wooden staircases as you go higher.
(+6)3.05pm: A junction to Upper Lake Dive Track and Lake Dive Hut.
(+3)3.08pm: At the end of the stairs is where the real challenge starts: The dreaded scree section!
Take a break to prepare for the tough climb ahead. Enjoy the view of the Taranaki Ring Plain below while the sky is clear.
The Scree Section
(+9)3.17pm: From the scree section onwards, there is no clear track and you’ll need to follow the snow poles up to Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut.
(+30)3.47pm: That was not the hardest part yet. As you climb higher, where plants stop growing, the scree slope becomes steeper and more treacherous.
(+10)3.57pm: Climbing the scree is like climbing a slope of rough moving marbles. Take a step forward and slide half a step down. Compared to the scree on Mt Taranaki Summit Track, this is much steeper and difficult to handle. At some steepest parts, I even had to use all my arms and legs to crawl up the sliding scree. This is the most time consuming section although from the map it looks like a short distance to the peak.
It is important to check the weather forecast to avoid days with low visibility and bad weather conditions. It is easy to get lost in the fog when you cannot see the next snow pole. I went for this climb during a window for good weather conditions. The morning before was forecasted and reported by earlier climbers for gale force wind that could easily throw someone off balance. And the evening next day after my climb was forecasted for heavy rain. Even so, there were several times I couldn’t see the path when some clouds came in. Fortunately, the clouds passed after a while and I got to continue on following the poles.
(+43)4.40pm: Sometimes you’d get to hold onto some bigger rocks as anchors but be careful, as many of these big rocks could easily move and start rolling down towards your legs. When climbing with others, take care not to send rocks flying down to other climbers below, and watch out for any rocks flying down from the climbers above.
Journey to Fanthams Peak & Syme Hut: Mt Taranaki Big Reveal!
(+7)4.47pm: After 1.5 hours of hustling the scree slope, I finally caught a glimpse of Mt Taranaki near the top.
(+2)4.49pm: And suddenly, the mighty Mt Taranaki just appeared so close in front of me!
(+1)4.50pm: Before Fanthams Peak & Syme Hut, there is this ridge to walk to the otherside. At this point, the most challenging part of the long scree slope is over. The ridge may look intimidating with steep slopes on both sides, but it is quite wide and you’ll be fine by following closely to the poles (unless there is gale force wind that could push you over, then don’t!).
On the right side of the ridge is the majestic Mt Taranaki, and the view gets better as you go higher!
Syme Hut (North Island’s Highest DoC Hut)
(+10)5pm: The first sight of Syme Hut from afar, next to Mt Taranaki to the right.
And of course, the full, breathtaking view of Mt Taranaki!
Spot the climbers: I spotted these 3 climbers tackling the ice-covered slope of Mt Taranaki. I later met them in Syme Hut as we shared the accommodation for the night. They were doing a trial and testing their gears for next morning’s attempt to summit Mt Taranaki via Syme Hut Track. It was in mid spring and most of the ice and snow hadn’t melted yet, so ice axes, crampons, and the technical skills to use it are necessary to climb Mt Taranaki at this time. As I do not have the gears and experience, I didn’t go for the summit climb. I did summit Mt Taranaki in early summer, when there was still quite some ice on the upper mountain.
(+8)5.08pm: Arrive at Syme Hut. The original Syme Hut was first built in 1930, initiated by Mt Egmont Alpine Club captain, Rod Syme. The hut was prefabricated in Hawera and dismantled to be carried up Fanthams Peak. More than 150 trips were made before it was ready to be assembled, which took only three days. EBy 1986, events such as closure during WWII, and years of snow and ice build-up meant the 57-year old hut was beyond repair. In conjunction with the Department of Conservation, the club constructed this new Syme Hut in 1988.
Basic yet cozy interior. There is cold running water from the rainwater tank. There is no heating or gas for cooking. At night, it was very cold outside but the hut was surprisingly warmer and comfortable. (Still, you’ll need a warm sleeping bag and clothes)
The best window views from Syme Hut!
The outside toilet of Syme Hut. Even the toilet needs metal cables to secure it from the extreme gust of wind.
A further view of Syme Hut with Mt Taranaki as the background.
Fanthams Peak
Checkout the amazing views while doing a short walk to Fanthams Peak and exploring around the area:
The unforgettable evening sea of clouds on the other side of the mountain!
The sky, the clouds, and the moon.
This journey was done in the middle of spring season, so there were still some big patches of ice around Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut. Pretty cool as that was my first time seeing and touching natural ice!
The view of Syme Hut and Mt Taranaki from the top of Fanthams Peak.
And the sea of clouds beneath the slopes.
The climbers I saw earlier walking from Mt Taranaki back to Syme Hut (lower right corner of the photo). Cool guys from Spain and Italy.
Retracing a section of their footsteps just for fun.
At this time of the year, you’ll need proper gears (crampons and ice axes) and the skills to use them. In this case, I am not climbing Mt Taranaki until Summer arrives.
Hanging out with one of the climbers, who was on ‘zen-mode’ enjoying the priceless view.
I was still feeling warm from the physical activities, hence still in my single base layer shirt and shorts. It gets very cold when the sun sets, so it’s crucial to bring proper cold weather clothes.
And then, the golden hour of the magnificent sunset!
It got pretty cold after standing outside for a while, so I ran back into the hut and enjoyed the sunset from within.
Fanthams Peak & Syme Hut - Day 2 (Descending)
Next morning, sunrise!
In the early morning, it was misty and visibility was low. I decided to wait in the hut until the land heated enough to push the clouds higher or make them disappear. I started my descent at 8.35am.
Going down the steep scree slope was arduous! Coming up was already hard enough, but going down was like walking on moving legos while trying not to slip and fall all the time. However, I saw an elderly climber ‘surf’ down with speed like it was nothing difficult!
(+3 hours and 25 minutes)11.58am: After a slow enduring ‘downhill crawl’ through the scree, seeing the starting point of the stairs was a total relief.
(+67)1.05pm: Passed through the Goblin Forest and returned to Dawson Falls Visitor Center.
Bonus pictures from Luis and the team of climbers I met, who summited the icy Mt Taranaki in the early morning:
Outstanding!
While at Dawson Falls Visitor Center, don’t leave without visiting Wilkies Pools and Dawson Falls!
With the day’s energy spent, have a filling delicious Chinese meal at KY Fast Food & Restaurant on your way back when passing through Stratford.
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*地球队长经过* 记住，请保护我们的环境，请勿破坏大自然。不要留下任何垃圾，只带回照片和回忆（如果可以的话，还可以捡走一些垃圾）。请在指定的路径上行走，并尽量保持在中间行走，以使裸露的土壤不会进一步扩散/腐蚀。与大自然融为一体吧 *飞走了*
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