The Baha Ayam Stong (BAS) is a hiking journey over the three main mountain peaks of Gunung Stong State Park in Kelantan, Malaysia: Gunung Baha, Gunung Ayam, and Gunung Stong / Setong. This is typically done by camping at Kem Baha campsite and the three peaks will be covered in a day’s hike. The hike to Kem Baha is a feat by itself, passing through the bottom of the massive Jelawang Waterfall to the top of the same waterfall by the campsite.
Permit and guide are compulsory to enter the state forest park and for the whole trip. Advanced booking is necessary, especially with its popularity and limited spots at Baha campsite. You can engage with a guide via registered tour operators / agents, Stong Hill Resort, or you could contact Kelantan’s district forest office (Pejabat Hutan Jajahan Kelantan Barat) for enquiries.
For my group, our beloved 大汉山 和 Merapoh Caves guide, Abang Sabri, was invited by his friend, who is a guide in Gunung Stong State Park, to come for this trip. So, he invited us to join this trip, with his friend as our guide. We paid RM300 per pax for our small private group of 8. There are cheaper large open groups available to join but we prefer going in a small group with good company.
Things I packed for Gunung Baha Ayam Stong Hiking & Camping Trip (3 Days 2 Nights)
- 30升 Hypergear 防水背包
- Additional waist attachments: One bottle pouch with pocket and one small phone pouch
- One large dry bag: An additional carry-on to carry my food and cooking items
- Hammock & fly sheet
- Quechua 登山雨衣
- KIPRUN quick dry running t-shirt + quick dry running shorts + Kiprun 跑步袜 + bandana (during the day)
- Cotton jacket + long sleeves cotton shirt + pants + warm socks (as sleepwear)
- Adidas Kampung (not from Adidas, Malaysia’s trusty rubber hiking shoes)
- Flip flops (for walking around campsite)
- 急救箱
- 4合1指南针和哨子
- 充电头灯
- Phone, powerbank & charging cables
- Food and snacks (Pasta, wraps, tuna pouches, chicken curry pouches, instant cereal packets, peanuts, kacang parang/broad beans, energy bars, and my ‘make-from-scratch’ pan mee ingredients), paper towels, rubbish bags
- TOMSHOO ‘gas-less’ wood camping stove + fire lighter + Quechua cooking pot + backup fuel tablets
- 水瓶
- HydroBlu 轻型滤水器
- CuloClean 便携式射水头, toilet paper
- Shower bag with personal hygiene items
- 折叠剪刀
- 斧头标风油: An effective leech repellent. You can also use it to soothe headache, dizziness, stuffy nose, muscle pain, etc.
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Gunung Baha Ayam Stong - Day 1
Hiking To Kem Baha
2.48pm: After the tour at Komplex Gua Ikan, we started our journey from Stong Hill Resort, passing through rundown chalets into the jungle.
(+23)3.11pm: The first river crossing at the bottom of Jelawang Waterfall.
We made a stop here to admire the waterfall.
Jelawang Waterfall
Also known as Stong Waterfall, Jelawang Waterfall is acclaimed (though not officially confirmed) to be the tallest waterfall in Southeast Asia. It is believed to be 270 meters tall and situated 450 meters above sea level.
3.34pm: We continued the climb to Kem Baha after the stop at the bottom of Jelawang Waterfall.
(+11)3.45pm: Steep ascent through bamboo forest.
Kem Baha (Campsite)
(+59)4.44pm: Arrived at Kem Baha.
Kem Baha is located right at the top of Jelawang Waterfall. From here you’ll have a nice view of the forest around Dabong. It is also a prime spot to watch the sunrise.
We picked a quiet spot to set up camp.
There is also a gorgeous waterfall and pool with a thrilling natural water slide next to the campground.
Basic toilet at Kem Baha (two cubicles).
Dinner time!
Putting my gas-less camping wood stove to the test. No need to bring heavy gas canisters, just collect twigs and branches scattered around the campsite as fuel. It worked great!
Gunung Baha Ayam Stong - Day 2
Sunrise at Kem Baha.
Kem Baha to Gunung Baha
8.37am: After breakfast, we started our Trans Baha Ayam Stong journey from Kem Baha.
(+13)8.50am
(+9)8.59am: 1st checkpoint at Sungai Rantai. There were small fish swimming in the river.
(+12)9.11am
An old shell of a bug.
We spotted quite a few ant nests along the trail.
(+42)9.53am
(+7)10am: One of the checkpoints. I think it’s the 4th checkpoint (Permatang Pasir), or the 3rd checkpoint (Sungai Baha)…
(+16)10.16am: Topping up water here with my water filter.
(+2)10.18am: A series of steep climbs began.
Shrooms.
(+67)11.25am
(+6)11.31am
The guide showed us some ‘pokok sarsi’ or rootbeer tree, and they smell just like rootbeer. Traditionally, people boil these to make real rootbeer drinks for health benefits.
(+29)12pm
Gunung Baha (1,450m)
(+9)12.09pm: Arrived at Gunung Baha Peak.
Gunung Baha to Gunung Ayam
(+11)12.20pm: Onwards to the next peak, the top of Gunung Ayam can be seen along the trail.
Gunung Ayam (1,504m / 1,550m?)
(+24)12.44pm: Reached Gunung Ayam Peak.
We found elephant footprints and dung near the peak!
(+17)1.01pm
Gunung Ayam to Gunung Stong
(+4)1.05pm: Before the push to the final peak, we refilled our water at the spring water source. Very clear and taste fresh!
(+63)2.08pm: Some ups and downs.
(+35)2.43pm
(+14)2.57pm: It started raining on the way to Gunung Stong.
Gunung Stong (1,422m)
(+1)2.58pm: We arrived at Gunung Stong peak in the rain.
Gunung Stong to Kem Baha
(+43)3.41pm: Love the rainforest in these parts. Look at the big trees!
(+11)3.52pm
(+12)4.04pm
(+2)4.06pm
(+21)4.27pm
(+2)4.29pm
(+3)4.32pm
(+36)5.08pm: Back to Sungai Rantai.
(+24)5.34pm: At last, back to Kem Baha.
After the cold bath in the river, it’s time to make some hot dinner! Using my wood stove, I cooked my ‘make-from-scratch river water pan mee’, the same recipe used during my Jerangkang Waterfall camping trip.
Gunung Baha Ayam Stong - Day 3
7.25am: Waiting for sunrise on the last day.
(+33)7.58am: Another cloudy day blocking the sun, which I think it’s even better than the eye-hurting direct sunlight.
(+14)8.12am: Love this! The rays of sun and the sea of clouds.
Breakfast with an amazing view.
One last bath in the river before heading back out of the forest.
Time to go T.T
For some reason the guides didn’t mention or take us to the Telaga Tujuh swimming holes and we were unaware of it so we missed that special side trip (T.T). It’s only a short but steep climb from the camp site, on the upper section of the waterfall. Here’s a video from my hiking friend who went there:
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