Of all the Great Walks in New Zealand, the Heaphy Track boasts the most varied landscape, with subtropical Nikau palm coastal forest, lush Beech forests, rocky mountain terrain, tussock downs, pounding waves, mystic caves, unique wildlife (eg. carnivorous nocturnal snails & prehistoric birds once thought to be extinct) and lots of interesting things to do along the way.
Between 1st of May and 30th of November, boost up your Heaphy Track adventure with extra fun by riding through the outstanding landscapes on a mountain bike. No mountain bike allowed outside of this period.
This post will guide you through the logistics and transportation options including mountain bike rental and relocation. I will also walk you through the journey from Kahaihai to Perry Saddle (Flanagans Corner) return journey, staying in some special historic huts and things to do at different points along the course. On my trip, I skipped the section between Perry Saddle and Brown Hut starting/ending point, as all the hikers I met along the way suggested I could skip the steep incline/descent return trip without missing out on anything and to have more time to explore other things.
Heaphy Track Great Walk Booking
All Great Walks in New Zealand require booking in advance for the huts and campsites. Off-site camping is not allowed on the Great Walk tracks. Here is the online booking site for all Great Walk accommodations. Lookout for the opening dates of bookings for each season as the popular great walks tend to get fully booked pretty fast.
If the slots are fully booked and you are flexible with your dates, you can run through the site’s booking calendar regularly to lookout for any new slots, as people often cancel their booking days/weeks/months before the trip. Don’t simply book and cancel though, here are the cancellation fees in detail.
Which Huts / Campsites To Stay On Heaphy Track
There are six huts and ten campsites for you to choose to stay on the Heaphy Track, depending on your plan and number of days on track. For a one-way trip, doing Heaphy Track on foot takes around 4-6 days, while riding the Heaphy Track on a mountain bike takes around 2-3 days.
The variety of huts also provides interesting choices from modern spacious new huts, such as Perry Saddle Hut, James Mackay Hut and Heaphy Hut for maximum comfort, to small classic rustic huts, such as Saxon Hut and Gouland Downs Hut for a nostalgic feel of the old days adventures.
On this 5-day trip, I first stayed at Heaphy Hut on the first night, followed by Saxon Hut on the second night, then Gouland Downs Hut (after the return trip to Perry Saddle) on the third night, and finally back to Heaphy Hut on the fourth and last night.
Heaphy Track Transportation & Logistics With Mountain Bikes
The whole Heaphy Track starts/ends from near Brown Hut to Kohaihai. Due to geographical factors, the drive between these two points involves a long 450 kilometers of on road traveling, not to mention the countless sharp cornered twists and turns on endless narrow, hilly roads.
Fortunately, there are several local companies that provide bus and air shuttle services to and from Heaphy Track ends. Moreover, some of these operators cater to mountain bikers who need to travel with their mountain bikes.
- The most scenic option is to fly in a mini plane with Golden Bay Air. They can fly you over the vast Kahurangi National Park between Takaka airport and Karamea airport, where both Heaphy Track end points are nearby (driving distance). In addition, they include shuttle bus services to Brown Hut track end from Takaka airport or Nelson town, and shuttle bus services to Kohaihai track end from Karamea airport. Other than that, they have direct flights from Wellington to Takaka airport. Bringing your mountain bike? No worry, they’ll carry your bike on the flight too! Note: Double fare applies if you are booking for one pax on a scheduled flight with no other passenger. You’ll get the refund for a single fare if someone books the same flight afterwards. Or, you could look into their list of booked flights and book those ones instead and then book your Heaphy Track huts/campsites accordingly.
- The Heaphy Bus also provides on-road (no flight) transport services between Nelson, Takaka, Brown Hut, Karamea and Kohaihai. This option is only sensible if you are starting and finishing at Nelson, so you don’t have to endure the long journey from Brown Hut to Nelson and then to Kohaihai, or vice versa.
- Karamea Express is suitable for hikers/riders from Westport doing a return journey from Kohaihai, who don’t have their own transport.
Heaphy Track Mountain Bike Rental
Since I didn’t have my own mountain bike, I had to rent one in order to ride on Heaphy Track. I highly recommend Coast Outdoors (previously known as Habitat Sports), a shop in Westport for all your outdoor activities needs, which also provides exceptional mountain bike rental services.
I have hired a mountain bike from Coast Outdoors and the quality was excellent and the shop owner, James, was very helpful and educative. Dry bags and emergency bike repair tools were provided. James also went me through some simple training on how to use the tools if needed (which I didn’t need to), and on how to dismantle the bike for transport. The bikes have dual-suspension for smoother and more comfortable rides, and are designed for rugged tracks such as Heaphy Track and The Old Ghost Road.
Things I packed for Paparoa Track
- Full-suspension Specialized’ StumpJumper Mountain Bike & Helmet (rented from Coast Outdoors)
- Bike spares and repair tools (provided by Coast Outdoors)
- 20L dry bag (provided by Coast Outdoors)
- 40L Hiking Backpack from Decathlon with rain cover and a large strong rubbish bag lined inside as additional water protection
- PTT Outdoor 的 HIGH PEAK 便捷旅行睡袋
- TOMSHOO sleeping bag liner
- Quechua 登山雨衣
- Sun Protect 长袖跑步 T 恤, 速干跑步短裤 + Kiprun 跑步袜 (for the day)
- Quechua 登山抓绒夹克
- Ski base layers top + pants + warm hiking socks + gloves from Decathlon (as sleepwear)
- Extra 羽绒服 (didn’t use but important to bring, just in case)
- Adidas Kampung (not from Adidas, Malaysia’s trusty rubber hiking shoes)
- Flip flops (for walking around huts and campsites)
- 急救箱，指南针和哨子
- 充电头灯 (red light recommended for kiwi bird spotting)
- Phone (with booking confirmation pdf file), powerbank & charging cables
- Food and snacks (wraps, tuna spread, Pic’s Peanut Butter Slugs, muesli, mixed nuts, energy bars, beef jerky), paper towels, rubbish bags
- Water bottles (1-2L)
- HydroBlu 轻型滤水器
- CuloClean 便携式射水头, toilet paper
- Toothbrush, toothpaste, hand sanitizer, soap, hairbrush
- Fire lighter (useful for lighting fire wood if staying in a hut)
- 折叠剪刀
Before you go, check the weather forecast for Heaphy Track. Located in the ‘roaring forties’, the West Coast is very exposed to the strong Westerlies, and the freezing Southerlies coming from Antarctica. Weather in Kahurangi National Park can be extreme when these winds occur.
The Day Before (Accommodation and Things To Do Around Westport)
Since I had to pick up the mountain bike from Coast Outdoors located in Westport on the day of my Heaphy Track journey, I stayed in Bazils Hostel & Surf School in town. The whole place had a good friendly vibe to it, and there’s surf classes you could join.
Not far from Westport is the Cape Foulwind Seal Colony Lookout. It’s a very accessible lookout point to watch the large colony of fur seals resting and swimming along the coastline below. Just park at the southern end of Cape Foulwind Track car park and walk about 10 minutes to the fur seals lookout platform.
Heaphy Track - Day 1
Kohaihai to Heaphy Hut (16.2km)
2.11pm: After devouring my delicious chilli beef pie bought from a hidden pie shop as I drove past Waimangaroa, I started my Heaphy Track journey from Kohaihai Campsite.
(+2)2.13pm: Just 2 minutes into the track is the short side trip to Kohaihai Lookout.
(+6)2.19pm: Back to main track, crossing the bridge over the river mouth.
(+6)2.25pm: While the elevation is generally flat all the way to Heaphy Hut, there is some good uphill riding on the first half hilly section over Kohaihai Saddle, which was a bit of a struggle for me riding fresh with a full pack.
(+21)2.46pm: Another short side trip to Scotts Hill Lookout. Not much to see but there’s a picnic table.
(+12)2.58pm: Back to main track, riding through Scotts Beach and some inland tracks.
(+9)3.07pm: Had a short break.
(+8)3.15pm: Sections of the coastal track here may be affected by rough sea and high surges of waves during high tide, so it’s advisable to time your journey through this section during low tides.
(+12)3.27pm: Crossing Swanburn River Bridge.
Katipo Creek Shelter & Campsite
(+41)4.08pm: Passing by Katipo Creek Shelter and campsite. There is a water tank and a longdrop toilet here.
(+4)4.12pm: Crossing Katipo River Bridge.
(+14)4.26pm: Twenty Minute Beach is the name of this beach.
(+15)4.41pm: The other end of 20 Minute Beach.
(+11)4.51pm: Crossing Wekakura Creek Bridge.
(+26)5.17pm: Riding through the Nikau palm trees galore made me feel like I was on a tropical island.
(+6)5.23pm: This section felt like I was riding through a kampung (village) in Malaysia.
Heaphy Hut & Campsite
(+4)5.27pm: 3 hours plus later, I arrived at Heaphy Hut to spend my first night.
There’s a washing area for bikes (I assume) at the back of the hut.
The wide grassy Heaphy Campsite at the next yard. Lots of cheeky wekas hanging around the area (watch your food!).
Interior of Heaphy Hut, equipped with gas stoves and many pots around to be used.
In the evening, I went to the beach close to the river mouth, just a short walk away from Heaphy Hut, to witness the sunset. P.s. Do not swim at the river mouth as strong currents could drag you out to the sea.
At night, I went out to look for the endangered, carnivorous giant Powelliphanta snails in action. At first, I found a lot of empty / broken shells, a grievous telltale sign of these threatened snails eaten by the invasive possums and rats.
Then, I finally found one that is alive and on the move! Found only in New Zealand, these nocturnal snails hunt for meat (eg. earthworms and slugs; they suck em’ up like spaghetti) after dark. They can live up to 25 years and grow as large as a fist.
Heaphy Track - Day 2
Heaphy Hut to James Mackay Hut (20.5km)
8.19am: Second morning, I started my long uphill journey towards James Mackay Hut and Saxon Hut.
(+32)9.01am: Crossing Gunner River Bridge.
(+34)9.35am: Crossing the newly rebuilt Heaphy River Swing Bridge. The previous bridge was damaged by a severe storm and the full track reopened after the new bridge is completed in 2023.
(+11)9.46am: At that time during my trip, the 101m long Lewis River Swing Bridge wasn’t constructed yet, so I had to ford the Lewis River, going through the river while pushing my bike. Now that the bridge is completed, you don’t need to worry about the rivers being impassable during floods.
(+6)9.52am: I decided to stop by at the Lewis Shelter for a quick energy snack.
Lewis Shelter
(+1)9.53am: Lewis Shelter. The shelter on the hill overlooks the river below.
(+16)10.09am: Had my snack and back on the main track. It’s all uphill here from Lewis Shelter to James Mackay Hut. Most of the time, I found myself on foot pushing the bike up the slopes (Coming back down will be a fun ride though!). Kiwi birds were occasionally spotted in daylight along this stretch but the kiwi luck wasn’t with me this time.
(+90)11.39am
James Mackay Hut & Campsite
(+101)1.20pm: After a tireless journey of pushing the bike uphill, I arrived at James Mackay Hut.
Interiors of James Mackay Hut, also equipped with sinks and gas stoves.
James Mackay Campsite.
James Mackay Hut to Saxon Hut (11.8km)
2.20pm: After lunch and toilet break, I left James Mackay Hut to continue my ride to Saxon Hut. The ride was easier as the track is rather flat or undulated from here. Instead of dense forest, the track is now surrounded by tussock fields and shrub-fringed patches of beech forest.
(+38)2.58pm: While in the open country between James Mackay, Saxon, Gouland Downs and Perry Saddle Hut, keep an eye out for the rare Takahē family reintroduced into Gouland Downs in 2018. The flightless Takahē birds were presumed extinct for nearly 50 years, until the last known wild population of Takahē was discovered in the remote Murchison Mountains in 1948.
(+81)4.19pm
Saxon Hut & Campsite
(+17)4.36pm: After a long smooth ride, I arrived at Saxon Hut where I spent my second night of Heaphy Track.
Instead of flush toilets as seen in the bigger, newer huts, long drop toilets are used at the older Saxon Hut. Not bad though.
The view around Saxon Hut. This is a good spot to listen to the calls of Great Spotted Kiwi birds at night, but I only heard the calls of cheeky wekas in the evening.
Saxon Campsite
A waterhole a short walk away.
The rustic but homely interior of Saxon Hut. There are also gas stoves and some pots in this hut.
A helpful info and guide on exploring the caves between Saxon Hut and Gouland Downs Hut. There was also a copy of this guide in one of the other huts (I can’t remember if it’s Gouland Downs Hut or Perry Saddle Hut).
Started up the fireplace for a warm night’s sleep.
Heaphy Track - Day 3
Saxon Hut to Gouland Downs Hut (5.4km)
9.46am: After a slow morning start as I waited for the rain to pass, I started my day three journey, leaving Saxon Hut towards Gouland Downs Hut.
(+34)10.20am
(+4)10.24am
(+14)10.38am: Approaching the “Enchanted Forest”.
Waterfall Cave
As explained on the caves guide, there is one goat trail to a cave known as the Waterfall Cave right before entering the “Enchanted Forest” on this side. Look for this stone cairn marking the entrance of the goat trail through the tussocks and scrubs.
(+6)10.44am: The goat trail leads to this large cave opening with a waterfall pouring down out of the cave, hence the name “Waterfall Cave”.
Enchanted Forest & Fossil Caves
(+7)10.51am: Into the Enchanted Forest.
(+5)10.56am: As you traverse the 500m section of the Enchanted Forest, look for some goat trails down the sides of the main track, which lead to a few caves (I think they are called Fossil Caves).
Some of these caves are connected and a couple trails go right under the main track to the opposite sides.
(+6)11.02am
(+1)11.03am
(+1)11.04am
Gouland Downs Hut & Campsite
(+9)11.13am: Out of the Enchanted Forest and arriving at Gouland Downs Hut and Campsite. This is where I slept for the night but I went further to Perry Saddle (Flanagans Corner) before heading back here at the end of day three.
A deer skull and a can crusher.
Gouland Downs campsite platform.
The view from Gouland Downs Hut (it started raining again).
Interior of the historic and traditional Gouland Downs Hut that’s full of character.
One of the hut’s main distinctive features is the traditional open fire instead of the common boxed/covered fireplace. No gas stove in this hut.
Hut Cave
12.14pm: Heading back a minute or two to the direction where I came from, I found the goat trail to the Hut Cave just before the Enchanted Forest, marked by a small stone cairn.
Another couple minutes to the cave entrance.
I explored the cave a bit (bring your torch) before heading back to the hut.
Gouland Downs Hut to Perry Saddle Hut (7km)
12.30pm: Since I still had many hours to spare, I decided to head up to Perry Saddle by foot and left my bike at Gouland Downs Hut (walking also allowed more focus for me to spot Takahe). Here, I passed by the stream flowing from Cave Brook (I presumed), where there might be some chance of spotting the rare Whio (Blue Ducks) (I doubt it as it wasn’t a big fast flowing stream where Whio thrive in). No luck.
(+16)12.46pm: The famed Boot Pole Corner, where trampers have tied old boots over the years. I wonder what’s the story behind it…
(+2)12.48pm
(+18)1.06pm: Picnic Table Corner with a wide angle view. Might be a good location to spot Takahe.
(+26)1.32pm
(+28)2pm: Turn off junction to Mount Perry (1,238m) route, 2 hours return. It was foggy at the top and it would be easy to get lost on the unmaintained route so I decided to skip this side trip.
Perry Saddle Hut
(+5)2.05pm: Arrived at Perry Saddle Hut.
Perry Saddle Campsite.
Interiors of Perry Saddle Hut.
The view from Perry Saddle Hut deck.
There is a “mountain spa” nearby, just find the trail behind the HAZCHEM shed at the back and walk five minute-ish down to Gorge Creek’s cold pool.
Flanagans Corner
About 30 minutes away from Perry Saddle Hut towards Brown Hut’s direction, is the Flanagans Corner. At 915m, it is the highest point on Heaphy Track.
A 3-minute side trip to the viewpoint on Flanagans Corner.
The view from Flanagans Corner.
Perry Saddle Hut to Gouland Downs Hut (7km)
4.58pm: The view on the way back to Gouland Downs Hut.
Back at Gouland Downs Hut, I chopped some logs from the woodshed for some firewood for the cold night. Using this traditional open fire in the hut was interesting but for some reason the smoke couldn’t escape properly through the chimney and the whole hut got very smokey.
The fireplace can be covered with the metal safety net to prevent burning wood from falling out.
Heaphy Track - Day 4
Gouland Downs Hut to Heaphy Hut (37.7km)
8.50am: In the morning, I started making my way back to Heaphy Hut.
(+82)10.12am: The journey back towards Heaphy Hut was an exciting, adrenalin pumping downhill ride through the lush green forest! I regret not bringing my action camera to record the fast and furious ride.
(+281)2.53pm: [Note: I arrived at James Mackay Hut at 12pm, had lunch break until 1pm while waiting for the rain and gust to settle down] Crossing the Lewis River. Due to the rain, the water level had risen but it had receded to a safe level when I arrived. A group of hikers had to wait for the river level to drop in the morning, before being able to proceed. (With the newly completed Lewis River Bridge, this wouldn’t be a problem anymore)
(+34)3.27pm: Back to the Nikau Palm forest.
(+42)4.09pm: Back to Heaphy Hut for my final night stay.
Heaphy Track - Day 5
Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai Exit (16.2km)
6.55am: Riding out in the morning on the final day of Heaphy Track.
The surging waves by the coastal track.
(+176)9.51am: I took the detour through the Nikau Walk (also used as Heaphy Track Flood Route) for the beautiful Nikau Palm galore.
(+8)9.59am: In the end, I arrived at Kohaihai Campsite and finished my 5-day journey on Heaphy Track!
After returning the mountain bike at Westport, I had a big, hot comfort meal at a great Japanese restaurant in Westport.
My next adventure takes place at Abel Tasman National Park. On my long drive there, I stopped at the free camping ground of Alexander Bluff Road Reserve to rest for a night. The campground can be crowded at times and the long drop toilets stink! But hey it’s free.
The rooster that lives here acts as a natural alarm clock early in the morning.
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